To know more about engineered framing members & their proper assembly read this article published by ASHI on LVL’s. As an ASHI home inspector knowing that experts are looking out for you is critical. This article will give you information you need to have confidence your home is built in compliance with current building standards.

Engineered lumber can support greater loads and longer spans than the more conventional dimensional lumber, but good performance requires proper handling and detailing.

On many newer homes today, laminated veneer lumber (LVL) has displaced both steel- and glue-laminated timbers for ‘large span’ applications.

The advantages: You don’t need a crane or a welder.
Therefore, as demand increases, we as home inspectors can expect to see more of these LVLs on both newer houses and additions. Although LVLs may handle a lot like conventional lumber, you should be aware it’s not the same “stuff.” And one of the more important connections we should look for, that’s often done insufficiently in the field, is the connection between the plies. Manufacturers are very specific about both nailing and bolting schedules for fastening plies.

Nailed and bolted connections: For laminating l-¾”-wide LVLs up to three 12-inch-deep plies, look for two rows of 16d nails spaced 12 inches on center. The rows should be nailed from both sides with the spacing staggered. For three plies over 12 inches deep, look for three rows of 16d nails, again 12 inches on center, both sides with a staggered pattern. For laminating four or more plies (generally, it is not recommended to exceed four plies), look for two rows, three inches from the top and bottom of ½”-diameter through-bolts with fender washers on both faces, every two feet on center, with a staggered pattern, in addition to the regular nailing schedule specified above. Other details we should look for include proper post caps, splices and beam pockets.

Post Caps: Load-carrying beams must have a minimum bearing length at each support. For this reason, most manufacturers of engineered lumber recommend steel post caps for wood posts or a steel-bearing saddle for steel posts — both with side plates on both faces — to prevent the beam from twisting or rotating at these supports.

Splices: Splices between piles should be staggered and should fall within the supported bearing length of a post. If this isn’t possible, the splice should fall in the middle between supports if the manufacturer concurs. Too often, the splice is placed just slightly off bearing where it can shift, causing the beam to sag.

Beam Pockets: Codes require protection of untreated foundation beams from concrete. They usually specify a ½” separation (gap) from all concrete surfaces. Some municipal building inspectors allow or require some type of vapor retarder between the wood and concrete (e.g., 6 mil poly-vapor barrier, foam sill-seal or a pressure-treated (p.t.) set block in the beam pocket). Non-p.t. wood should not be grouted tight into the pocket because of the possibility of rot.

Truss Joists: The truss joists may have Gang-Lam, LVL flanges and solid, oriented stand board webs. They’re manufactured with no camber, eliminating possible upside-down installation. Some of the common “red flag” areas we should look for include the following conditions, which are NOT permitted.

Red Flags

Don’t use dimensional lumber for fastening to truss joists such as band joists. Dimensional lumber, unless it’s kiln-dried, often has a higher moisture content. Therefore, when the shrinkage occurs as it dries, connection problems often result.

Don’t put holes too close to supports. Use only manufactured knock-out areas or stay within the limits of the manufacturer’s web-hole specifications.

Don’t overcut holes and damage flanges.

Don’t cut or notch or drill any section of the flange.
Don’t use oversized nails or hammer on flange and damage the joint.
Don’t cut beyond the inside edge of the bearing (don’t scarf-cut ends).

Don’t support joists on web.

Another common deficiency to look for is a loose bottom flange pulling away from the web. This condition may occur during erection when framers might be hitting the top of joists and/or inappropriate loads are fastened to the bottom flange.

In conclusion, it is impossible for us to know or even carry the manufacturer’s specs (span charts, installation details, etc.) for all the different engineered lumber out there. Therefore, if you see any of these ‘red flag’ areas or other deficiencies and have concerns or questions, it would be prudent to advise your client accordingly.

ASHI Home Inspectors in Austin are familiar with what a safe stairway is & is not. Industry standards are very clear of the correct method of construction & fastening to make steps, balconies, etc for all home. Hiring the cheaper inspector may cost you more that a few bolts to repair, it may cost you your life. Put your life in our hands. We are ASHI & we speak house!

Step and Stair Inspections, Done to the ASHI Standards of Practice

According to the National Safety Council, 1,638 persons died from falls on or from steps and stairs in 2004 (the most recent year statistics available). This was greater than the combined number of deaths from bathtub and swimming pool drownings (1,027). Furthermore, the Centers for Disease Control National Health reports that in 2001-2003 the annualized rate of fall injuries to adults aged 65 years and older on stairs, steps or escalators was estimated at 260,000. This was 15.5 percent of all fall injuries for this age group. ASHI Standards of Practice requires us to inspect exterior attached or adjacent decks, balconies, stoops, steps, porches and their associated railings. We are also required to inspect interior steps, stairways and railings.
Because we examine residences of all ages and styles, we must accurately report any adverse conditions found so that our clients can learn of conditions that pose the potential for fall injuries. (Our Standards require reporting a reason or explanation as to the nature of deficiencies reported that are not self-evident.) I refer to deficiencies as adverse conditions, which I define in my inspection glossary. Many adverse conditions found in or on steps and stairs meet the definition of UNSAFE listed in our Standards of Practice Glossary: “A condition in a readily accessible, installed system or component that is judged to be a significant risk of bodily injury during normal, day-to-day use; the risk may be due to damage, deterioration, improper installation, or a change in accepted residential construction standards.”Many of the recent changes in construction standards (building codes) involve changes in stair dimensions, but do not require changes in existing stairs and steps. Further, it is unlikely that rebuilding an interior stairs in a residence would be feasible from either a physical or cost-effective perspective. Therefore, while the ASHI inspector could report that an existing stairs does not meet new building code dimension (width, rise and run) requirements, s/he would be hard pressed to report a suitable recommendation to correct, as required by our Standards. Given this constraint, I believe it is most important to focus on adverse conditions that can be easily remedied.

You want the best for your investment, so choose the ASHI home inspector in Round Rock or Cedar Park. Don’t settle for the inspector that your realtor suggested, do your home work to know that you found the best home inspector for you. Know that your realtor wants to close the deal & may not give the most experienced home inspector. It is your job to find the home inspector that will most suit your expectations. Do you want an Austin home inspector that looks out for your best interest or a home inspector in Austin Texas that only cares about volume home inspections & getting to the next appointment?

Choosing a Builder is like finding the right car when there a dozens to choose from. That is why you need an ASHI home inspector in Austin Texas that is knowledgeable of the different builders & to know of their quality or short comings. The Austin home inspector you hire will give you necessary insights to the Builder & what you need to watch for. Don’t hire a home inspector that performs inspections for Builders, they only have the Builders interest. Hire the home inspector that has your interest at heart.

As a home inspector I can tell you how a heat pump works, but I can’t tell you why it is more energy efficient. That is why I will leave the rest to the expert. If you wanted to know about heat pumps & were considering one for your home, then read this article below found in the Journal of Light Construction. Enjoy the article.

TRAP THE EARTH FOR CHEAP HEAT
If you think heat pumps aren’t practical up North, it’s time to look at closed-loop, earth coupled heat pumps by John Siegenthaler

In 1852 Lord Kelvin, an English physicist and engineer, proposed a novel way to heat houses: Extract heat from the outside air. The technology has come a long way since then, and heat pumps have become a major industry in the U.S. With engineering improvements, the “air-to-air” technology envisioned by Lord Kelvin has become a practical, economically competitive way to heat and cool houses in moderate climates. Heat is absorbed from outside air in winter and delivered to the house via forced air ducting. In summer, the refrigeration cycle is reversed, with heat taken from inside the house and rejected outside. But air-to-air systems are far less viable in the cold northern states. The coefficient of performance (COP) experienced during prolonged periods of sub-freezing outside air temperatures mandates some form of supplemental
heating.

In all-electric systems, the supplemental heat is usually provided by electric strip heating elements mounted in the duct work near the discharge of the heat pump. During cold periods (20°F or lower), the strip heating provides the majority if not all of the heat to the building. For a heat pump to function at a consistently high COP with predictable heating capacity, it must tap a stable source of free heat. The earth has long been recognized as such a source.

During the last five to ten years, the technology of extracting heat from the earth has improved, and several U.S. firms have begun developing a market for earth-coupled heat pump (ECHP) systems. In cold climates, where outside air temperatures fall below practical limits for efficient operation of air-to-air systems, the temperature of the soil at a given depth and time of year can be estimated quite accurately. Furthermore, although the soil temperature gradually decreases during the heating season, it is virtually immune to sudden air temperature changes at the surface. Because of the stability and higher temperature of this heat source, the heating capacity of the pump is higher and more stable, minimizing or eliminating the need for a supplemental heat source. Also, during the cooling season, earth-coupled heat pumps typically
have a higher energy efficiency ratio (EER) because they reject heat to soil that is far cooler than the ambient air temperatures.

Home inspections often reveal heavily neglected fireplaces & chimneys which be fire hazards with expensive repair cost. The fireplace in many homes is the center of attention during a cold winter’s night, but ignored the rest of the year. This is unfortunate, because they can be very dangerous if not maintained properly. Heavily caked creosote can catch on fire in the chimney. Temperatures in a chimney fire can reach up to 500 degrees. At these temperatures the mortar between flue tiles can melt and allow the fire to spread to the rest of the home. The entire home could be lost in a matter of minutes. Regular cleaning of the chimney is highly recommended.